Big Fish Restaurant
of Orange Beach

This Restaurant in the Small Town of Orange Beach, Alabama Deserves Uptown Recognition

I finally get an opportunity to eat at Big Fish Restaurant. It is one of those "let's go eat" moments when we aren't technically on a "date" but later wish we would have made the occasion a "date" night. We are casually dressed and completely taken aback at what greets us upon entering Big Fish Restaurant.



First of all exterior looks are deceiving. The restaurant is located in a strip mall off Canal Rd in Orange Beach close to Hwy 161 intersection. If I recall there is a Dominos, Subway and car wash next door. A black board with cute lettering greets us.

The second we enter I feel ashamed I did not check the decor online before arriving.

Big Fish Restaurant is sexy. By sexy I mean owner Jana Lilayuva greets us and she is gorgeous. She is gorgeous and disarmingly "nice" and friendly. I ask if I can take her photo and she obliges and asks if I will shoot a picture of their giant trophy earned in a recent Zatarain's Shrimp Fest contest. I snap a shot and notice a framed front page of The Pelican Weekly periodical where husband/chef Leck LaBron is featured. Of course seeing the trophy and framed news magazine builds excitement that we are in for an extraordinary meal.

We walk by a sexy bar area with Italian hand-blown glass pendants that showcase the beverages and rows of flat screen tvs while a groovy lounge-type music fills the air. Seating in this area is NYC style --- one long bench fronted with small tables in a row. You mingle and touch neighbors this way.

We have a choice to be seated outdoors in a lovely Italianate-like patio area or indoors at a booth. We choose the latter. I want to experience the open kitchen "feel" of the place. Next to us are bar height tables with chairs. Atop the restaurant/bar divider are hand blown works of art.

Server Nikki tells us the special of the day. We choose a 14 oz Ribeye, rare with mashed potatoes and green beans in browned butter ($26) and Black Grouper from the Caribbean done "Big Fish" style --- in a soy and Sherry-based sauce with ginger and scallions. Jasmine Rice accompanies and freshly sauteed spinach is on the side for $25.

The steak? It is done to perfection. It is properly criss-cross seared with a crisp, flavorful "crust" and the interior a warm, juicy red. There is no need to add a thing. It is perfectly seasoned.

The fish has an "Asian" sweet, yet salty quality and flavors meld perfectly. The rice holds together firmly yet is not dry. It is aromatic and a perfect addition to the "Big Fish house style" of sauce. The spinach is flash sauteed so it retains some texture yet is sweet, not bitter.

I cannot resist the sound of homemade coconut bread pudding with white chocolate sauce for dessert. If I were to try to duplicate the flavor I'd use Krispy Kreme donuts soaked in cream, eggs and sweetened coconut then cook in a water bath. The melted white chocolate sauce has a hint of salted butter and is rich yet not cloyingly sweet. The serving is ample enough for two with enough to take home. I WANTED to sample the homemade Gelatos. I believe flavors offered this night are Dulce De Leche ---a caramel/vanilla flavor and chocolate mint.

While we are dining, one table turns over and another couple arrives and is seated behind us. I saw a party enter to eat outdoors --- another larger party is in an adjacent room. Now mind you it is Thursday night around 6 p.m. In any other city, tourist-based or not, this restaurant would be reservation-based only.

Here is what is to know about the chef and food: the chef/owner Leck LaBron is a native of Orange Beach and comes from a long line of restauranteurs. His father owned a restaurant since the 70's and sold it to his aunt. It still exists as "Niki's Seafood." It is located just West of Big Fish Restaurant on the same street. Leck and Jana used to manage "Genos Fresh Catch" formerly located at Zeke's Landing --- where "Shipps Island Thyme" is now located.

"All my fish comes from the Florida Panhandle through the Atlantic and Caribbean," says Leck. I am told all shrimp is domestic and "oysters come from everywhere ... the 'primo' ones come from the East and West Coasts and Canada. Local oysters are from Appalachiacola, Louisiana or Texas."

A quick search on Big Fish Restaurant's Facebook "Wall" reveals comments as, "We LOVE Big Fish!!! Best restaurant in the area!!!" exclaims local Renee Fisher Coleman of Gulf Shores, AL.

"beachlaw" recommends Big Fish on "UrbanSpoon" and writes of a visit in May 2011, "I'm a local, and for some reason I hadn't tried out this restaurant till recently. Promoting something when a tourist destination is your hometown is a catch 22 due to long lines in the summer, but this place is too good to miss. It's a must for anyone on vacation, and solidly in my weekly dining rotation. The owner is a local and knows that serving un-fresh fish is not something you can get away with in Orange Beach. Go check it out --- but not everyone at once please."

My guess is "beachlaw" feels like I do that this restaurant deserves greater recognition. If located in any other metropolitan city this restaurant would be packed --- at all hours. It is a jewel of a place --- obviously not for everyone. A meal for two will set you back nearly $100 with dinner, drinks and dessert. It deserves to be considered "gourmet" --- even "fine" dining, yet all patrons were dressed like us --- men in casual shirts, shorts, flip flops and women in sandals, cotton, flow - ey skirts.

In a city like Memphis, TN for example, the bar area might be filled with attorneys in suits playing backgammon after work or with ladies dressed in silk with crossed stockinged legs sitting at the bar tables sipping Martinis engaged in chatty conversations. It would be a "before" date and a "date-night destination." Happy Hour would be hopping and guests would not have to walk far to enjoy a scrumptious meal.

But Big Fish Restaurant is located in Orange Beach, AL with a year round population just under four thousand. It is also located in a strip mall far from the "beaten, tourist path." In this scenario it appears to be a Big Fish for a small pond.

This is a big "recommend" folks. Leave the kiddos with baby-sitters, put on your nice, pretty clothes and make-up and make a "date" to eat at Big Fish Restaurant. You'll leave feeling like you've "gone out" somewhere special --- because it IS special.

Big Fish Restaurant
25814 Canal Road, Orange Beach, Al 36561
251.981.5516


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